Mongolian Countryside

Before the Ger is Built

Today is my last day in Mongolia…. The 6 weeks have really flown by! I will highlight the events of the past week once again. Happy to report there were no broken down vans, but we were a little run down as we roughed it in the countryside!

I hope you have enjoyed the travel reports and I will post more links, classroom tools, photos, and videos for months to come.

Building a Ger
You really haven’t had the true Mongolian experience until you have built the ger you sleep in. I am happy to report, I have had that opportunity. For 2 days, we stayed out in the middle of the countryside with the mayor of Khotont and his family to get a glimpse of nomadic life. When we arrived, we were welcomed by the mayor and then led outside to assemble a ger. The Fulbright group did a pretty good job tying the walls together and connecting those to the door. We even did a fair job in connecting all the poles for the roof, but then we needed help putting on the layers of felt and canvas tied down correctly. I ended up sleeping in that ger through the wind and rain over the two days and I must say – it held together pretty well!

Anklebones (Shagai)
Being nomadic in the Mongolian countryside means being practical, compact, and resourceful. There are many, many games that are played using the anklebones of sheep. Even though you won’t see me returning with a bag of bones for my classroom, I will teach the games using other objects. Having the only stove at the time, all the Fulbrighters and all the Mongolian hosts piled into our ger (36 in all I think) to learn how to play the games. A bone has 4 sides: camel, horse, sheep, and goat. I can actually tell you the difference, if you want to know! :+) There are games similar to jacks and marbles as well as other ones called horserace and turtle. We also learned an alternative finger game to rock, paper, scissors – although around here it’s kind of a drinking game!

Horserace
The American Center for Mongolian Studies hosted a horserace in our honor outside of Khotont. All of the big races are held during the summer months with Naadam being the ultimate. I mentioned before my departure that the riders in these races are children under the age of 10 in most cases. That was the case in our race. Before the race, all the horses, children and their families gathered on a hillside. A finish line was marked on the dirt road and the horses were ridden to the starting line, which was about 20km away. We could see the racers on the top of a hill way in the distance before they started. Despite the hail storm, the race went on! The top 5 finishers were awarded the greatest honors, but the top 20 finishers were given prizes in our race. The race had about 50 from all over the province and all were 3 year old horses. The father of the 1st place winner traditionally sings a song and in this race he dedicated the race to the American teachers in his song!

Khorkhog
Being a vegetarian, I shouldn’t have been taking so many photos of this! Again, being nomadic means making use of what you have – including cookware. When we returned from the horserace we found a dead goat ready to be prepared in the traditional way. We were told it had been killed with a hammer to its head. First, this meant stringing the goat up by its hind legs to be skinned and then carved. The skin (with head attached) is then positioned over these long poles so that the goat can be re-filled with hot rocks, chunks of meat, and veggies for cooking. (We were told vegetarians were originally going to be served those vegetables.) A large stick is then used to stir it all up. Our hosts accidentally tore a hole in the skin that had to be repaired later. The goat is tied back up to seal it so the contents can cook. But wait – there’s more. The fur is pulled off as best it can and then the rest is blowtorched off. Set 40 minutes to cook and cut open to serve.

Hustai Nuruu Park
In the national park, we participated in a felt making session. Felt made from sheep’s wool is used a great deal in daily life from gers to slippers. Most of the felt is still made in this traditional way. First sticks are used to beat the wool clean. I can tell you from experience it’s not as easy as it looks. I had wool flying everywhere! The wool is then twisted and pulled into smaller pieces that are arranged on a tarp the size of a large carpet. The wool is watered and then covered with damp sheets. The tarp is rolled on a large wooden cylinder and wrapped in horse hide. The roll is then “blessed” with airag (as is the horse and rider), and then the roll is dragged behind the horse for a distance to mat the material into felt!

After our session, we went in search of Takhi horses (also known as Przewalski’s horse). This is the last known truly wild breed of horse. It was nearly extinct a few decades back, but due to careful breeding programs and reintroduction into protected areas, the numbers have grown to 260. We were lucky enough to find a small group grazing in the evening.

Mini-Naadam
Naadam is the large sporting and cultural event that takes place in July of each year where wrestling, archery, and horseracing are featured. Since we missed the event, a small version was re-created for us at Hotel Mongolia. It was fun to see the wrestling matches and the traditional outfits worn for the event. Imagine speedos, traditional pointed hats and short open vests. I have heard the open vests are to ensure women don’t join in the competition. Females can be archers or riders however! Despite the rain, we all had the chance to try our hand at archery. I will blame the weather for my poor performance :+) It was still fun to see if I could even get it in the air or half-way to the target. One day I’d like to return for the true Naadam event!

Homestay

Miigaa, Tamir, Bat-Ochir, Baigalmaa, Me, and Enkhtuya

For the 2 days in between travels outside of the capital, Ulaanbaatar, we all were placed with a family. My family was a mother with her two grown daughters. I stayed with one of the daughters, her husband, and her two sons.

They were briefed on my vegetarian complications ahead of time and never let on that I was a problem. Food was constantly being offered and no matter what I ate, it wasn’t enough! In fact, I uncomfortably was an honored guest. I slept in the only bedroom – a full sized bed just for me – while the 6 of them slept on the living room floor. The mother and one daughter live elsewhere, but they slept over too. Being in the Gobi, I had a ton of dirty clothes to wash. Never given the chance. The older daughter, Baigalmaa, washed all of them and even made a point to show me she was separating the colors.

Only the younger daughter, Miigaa, spoke English and at times communication was challenging. There was no hot water the entire time I was there and the first day they wanted to take me somewhere in town for a shower. I never quite understood where the shower was going to be. I told them it wasn’t necessary and I ended up just washing my hair under cold water for 2 days.

The neighborhood where they lived is one I would not go out in alone and the building was dark and very run down. In fact, if you weren’t fast enough on the elevator, the doors would close and you’d be in complete darkness before you could press the button for your floor. The apartment was much nicer and spotless.

The mother, Enkhtuya, is the principal of the school the Fulbright group visited, School No. 46, and I hope to keep a connection with her school and teachers. I promised to send books in English, as these are very scarce in Mongolia, so if anyone has some they’d like to donate send them my way!

The family was a perfect match for me. Others went to karaoke or dancing with their families. We talked for hours. How, you may ask? After sharing photos, making hand gestures, acting out, drawing pictures, and some translation – our connection was made. Traveling is often about the people you meet and I’m so fortunate to have met this family!

The GOBI

Visitng a Camel Herder Family

Sorry it took so long. We went straight from the Gobi into homestays. Mine didn't have hot water, let alone internet! We are off tonight for 5 days to the countryside, so you won't hear from me again for a while. There are 2 new short videos to see too. Be sure to look at them!

Since I have been away from a computer for so long, I am going to give you highlights of our trip to the Gobi rather than a long summary. It was hot and oh so very dusty. I’ve never been so dirty in my life! The scenery was amazing though and the animal time was unforgettable.

Train to Sainshand
They added an entire car just for our group, so we could be 2 to a compartment. So, we were the Fulbright car hurtling through the Gobi. It was a 10 hour train ride that was hot and dusty. We had to close the windows or the sand would be unbearable. Even so, just sitting in our seats we were covered with a layer of grit and I had dirt under my fingernails.

Danzanravjaa Museum
This person was a monk in Buddhist and Shamanism in the 1800’s. Story is he was killed by Manchu rulers. The incredible part of this story though is how Danzanravjaa’s assistant, Baishinchoijoo, guarded all of his artifacts and taught his son how to do the same. This continued through the generations to the present day and this collection is one of the few that survived the Soviet years in Mongolia. We met the 7th guardian in this generational line of protectors and even had a chance to see the contents of two boxes that had just been unearthed a few days before. There are still around 30 boxes of treasure buried in secret locations!

Sleeping in a Ger
For half of the nights in the Gobi, we slept 2 to a ger. The hole in the middle of the ger is wonderful because it lets in light and you can see stars at night. If the ger is traditional, the hole is not covered and all kinds of flying creatures join you – not exactly a bonus. To keep the space cool, you leave the door open and prop up the felt and material on one side of the ger with wood sticks. This allows all kinds of other critters in however. We heard of scorpions, mice, and rats in the gers of our group. We were lucky and only had beetles, moths, and flying black insects!

Broken Down in the Desert
A 6 hour hot, dusty, bumpy ride on dirt roads turns into a 16 hour ride. We termed the day “Black Friday”. One of the 3 passenger vans broke down every km or so…something about a fuel pump. We explored and I saw tons of tiny lizards, horses, and a kangaroo rat. We once stopped at an oasis, which was cool. I cannot stress the bumpy term enough. Those of you who have been on the Indiana Jones ride at Disneyland know exactly what I’m talking about – no exaggeration. The day ended with me dozing in the van and cracking my head on the side of the Russian van I had moved to. One week later – still have the bump! Oh, and there are no “bathrooms” in the desert!

Ivanhoe Mines
We had the chance to tour the copper mine that has been in the news a lot lately. Sporting goggles and hard hats we had the chance to see how the rocks and people are lifted up and down the mine shaft on giant pulleys operated in a separate control room. We didn’t get to go down in the mine, which was probably a good thing since it’s .8 of a mile down.

Khankhongor – “Weeping Camel”
For those of you who have seen “Story of the Weeping Camel”, we went to the big village that is shown in that documentary. The village is quite small: one shop, a 9 bed hospital, 3 main wells, a school, and a cultural center. They did have the only senior center in the country and a felt making area – which was a bit of a surprise. We had the chance to meet the dance teacher who is shown in the movie, but not the musician. We were told he had an accident, broke both his hands, and no longer plays.

Khankhongor School
A highlight was working in small groups with Mongolian teachers to create materials for newly added English classes for the upcoming school year. In a group with one Mongolian teacher and 2 other US teachers we came up with a poster/game to teach the parts of the body. The school is attended by children of herder families who stay in the dorms beginning at age 7.

Ger Welcome
Our leader Brian had taught us all about the protocol of entering and being welcomed in a ger. Put nothing on the floor. Take what you are offered with two hands. Pass the snuff bottle with your whole palm. First, we were offered camel’s milk and then a heaping bowl of hard, fried bread and salty cheese curds was passed by the daughter. The herder joined us and passed the snuff bottle to each of us individually. Yes, I tasted camel milk – very sour. My one bite of the fried bread told me it was rock hard and very greasy. The nibble of the cheese wasn’t so bad – just a little salty! We had a similar routine at the end of our visit – but this time with the camel’s milk we were able to collect!

Camels
We had the chance to be up close and personal with the camels! I milked a camel – first thing I’ve ever milked! I also had the chance to ride one too. I wasn’t quite ready when the camel started to stand up and I nearly fell off! Thank goodness there was a hump to hold onto! There was one I wanted to bring home with me. He liked having his jawbone scratched and would lick my hand! They definitely aren’t as mean as they are made out to be!

Goats
I had read about how goats are milked in a museum we went to earlier, but you have to see it to understand. It’s amazing how the goats just line up and wait to be tied in these long lines where their necks intersect. To milk them, you just go down the line, moving your little stool and bucket, until all are done.

Quick Update

Sain bain uu everyone!

Really quick! I wanted to let you all know my bag arrived safe and sound - so no worries there. We leave for the Gobi tomorrow and I will not have ANY access to computers for ONE WEEK at least. I hope to milk a camel and maybe ride one too! I'm sure I will have a ton of photos to share on my return. In the meantime, enjoy these. We leave on a 10 hour train ride tomorrow and some people from the ACMS (American Center for Mongolian Studies) Center will drive separate vans full of supplies so we will be well taken care of.

Have a great week and think of me in the Gobi!

Bagless in Ulaanbaatar

Mongolian musicians at welcome reception


Yes, I managed to make it here - in one piece. Only problem - luggage didn't.

Today began at 5am with a boxed lunch on the bus to the airport. Leaving China was not nearly as nerve-wracking as entering! Our flight was a quick 2 hours. I got a window seat with the hope of seeing the Great Wall since our schedule didn't allow us to visit it. Unfortunately it was difficult to see due to the haze hanging around the city and later, when it cleared, I looked and looked but we must have had a different flight pattern.

We didn't get our health and passport clearance paperwork until we got off the plane, so everyone was positioning their forms on walls to complete everything. Again we were scanned for our temperatures and we all made it to baggage claim. Here is where things go amiss. Six of us on the trip (in addition to about 20 others) were standing at the baggage carousel far too long watching the same 4 bags tumble around. Finally, an airport worker came up and said "It's finsihed. Come back same time tomorrow" When we didn't move he led us to a counter, asked for our baggage check forms and wrote a phone number while he repeated the same message. We kind of slowly walked out to meet the rest of the group and explained our situation. Enke, our Mongolian speaking host, went over to verify and got the same story.

So, I have the clothes on my back, my computer, a brush, my medication, and some lotion. To think I spent all those months labouring over what to bring to Mongolia...

We had a bit of free time after we checked into our hotel and after our city tour, so I went shopping. I think I'm ok for a day or so. Keep your fingers crossed that my luggage actually gets here tomorrow.

We met our host families tonight at a reception. The reception was really wonderful. We had the chance to see our first Mongolian musicians and throat singer. The mother of my family is a school principal who speaks no English. She brought her 21 year old daughter who is studying to be a teacher. There are other children in the family ranging from age 11 to 26.

Well that's about all the time I have right now. Send an update as aoon as I can!

CHINA

Jillian and I on pedi-cab, Hutong district Beijing

I wrote a ton in my journal about China. I am only going to give you 2 excerpts here due to time constraints!! Let me start by saying that my perceptions are based on about 12 active hours. We arrived on a 13 hour flight from Auckland. We were all a little uncertain about how the arrival would unfold. At first, we were held up on the plane - waiting for quarantine officials to come. Then were were held up at the entrance to the quarantine section - people were crammed in a small space that an escalator led up to so people were getting trampled. All airport workers were in masks. As your health form was being read, youru temperaturewas being read through the air with a video camera looking device. (we saw another one in the hotel lobby where we were staying.) I'm happy to report we all cleared!

On our one day in China we did 4 things: visited the Hutong district, went to the Forbidden City, walked on Tian'anmen Square and had a Beijing duck dinner. The highlight for me was the visit to the Hutong district. In the Hutong district, we saw a drum and bell tower used to tell the time. Traditionally, there are no clock towers. We then had a pedi-cab ride around the tiny streets. We ate lunch in a family's small courtyard home and visited a market. The Hutong district is one of the oldest areas in Beijing. The streets are narrow and there are mostly courtyard homes where 4 small homes are joined by a courtyard behind a main gate. In the past, one extended family lived there, but now as many as 31 people live in the 4 home community. Too many for the bathroom facilities, so public restrooms are scattered throughout the area. On the pedi-cabs we saw many people out on the streets on bikes, cars, or towing carts. There were just so many people so close together. There was a damp smell that I equated with the smell of a basement in an historic building. Some of the people were friendly and exchanged smiles with us or flashed peace signs. Others just wanted to get their work done and didn't seem to appreciate the added challenge of navigating past our line of pedi-cabs. Being in the streets of Hutong was by far the highlight of my time in Beijing.

On to Mongolia!